Curious Cook

Curious Cook in the New York Times: Aging, aerating, and uncorking wines

In this month's Curious Cook column I report on an instructive tasting and conversation with wine chemist Andrew Waterhouse and retailer and connoisseur Darrell Corti. We talk about storage temperatures, how much a wine can be really be changed between opening and sipping, and a simple way to get rid of cork taint.

Curious Cook in the New York Times: Two-tone persimmon pudding

The chemistry of dark, rich persimmon pudding is the subject of my column in the New York Times this week. There's also a recipe for a pudding with two very different colors and flavors.

Strange flavors in white pepper

As I noted in my previous post, in this week's New York Times column I wrote about the recent discovery of the molecule that contributes the distinctive peppery aroma to black and white pepper--and to Syrah wines. Along the way, I also described some of the strange and not very pleasant aromas that white pepper can have, which range from barnyardy to plastic to medicinal. It was the plastic-medicinal quality that gave away the problem with some really bad pommes purées at a Midtown restaurant: they had been white-peppered to death.

In the printed version of the column, the third-to-last paragraph suggests that all white pepper carries these unpleasant notes. This is not true.

Curious Cook in the New York Times: Band-Aids, Shiraz Wines, and the Essence of Pepper

In this month's Curious Cook, I write about some really bad pommes pureés, the sometimes strange flavors of white pepper, and new research on Shiraz wines that revealed the key to pepperiness.

There's an error that crept into the printed column during the editing, and a number of interesting facts that didn't make the cut. More on these in my next post.

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Wood, C. et al. From wine to pepper: rotundone, an obscure sesquiterpene, is a potent spicy aroma compound.  J. Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2008, 56: 3738-44 .    http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/jf800183k  

Curious Cook in the New York Times: Wild and crazy apples

In the November 21st issue of the New York Times, I write about rare and wild apples, and apples of the future.

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Curious Cook in the New York Times: Chemical signals that boost basil flavor

In today's Curious Cook column I write about the elusive flavor advantage of organic foods, and about a simple treatment that can increase the flavorfulness of basil and quite possibly other herbs and vegetables.

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P. Maeder et al., Wheat quality in organic and conventional farming: results of a 21 year field experiment. J. Science of Food and Agriculture, 2007, 87, 1826-35. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.2866

H.-J. Kim et al. Effect of chitosan on the biological properties of sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum L.). J. Agriculture and Food Chemistry 2005, 53, 3696-3701. http://dx.doi.org/10.1021/jf0480804

Curious Cook in the New York Times: Clarifying liquids with gelatin

In my column in the September 5 New York Times, I describe a recently discovered method for making intensely flavored liquid essences, or "consommés," from all kinds of foods, from meat stocks and fruit juices, baked potatoes and chocolate. 

The Times prints a recipe for brown butter consommé from H. Alexander Talbot and Aki Kamozawa, authors of the remarkable blog Ideas in Food. David Kinch, chef-owner of the acclaimed restaurant Manresa in Los Gatos, California, generously sent me a recipe for a pumpkin consommé, but the the Times didn't have space to print it. With chef Kinch's kind permission, here it is.

New developments in tomato flavor, part 2: How about some lemon basil in that tomato?

The second of two recent studies of tomato flavor involves genetic engineering, and offers a scent of tomorrow's tomatoes. 

A group of plant scientists in Israel and at Rutgers and the University of Michigan reported their success in transferring a gene from the basil plant into tomato plants. This particular gene diverts molecules in the pathway toward becoming the red pigment lycopene, and sends them instead onto the pathway that generates aroma molecules. The engineered tomato plants produced fruits that were paler than usual, but also had a stronger aroma and smelled distinctly of perfume, rose, geranium, and lemongrass. More than half of a panel of taste testers preferred the engineered tomato to its unengineered parent. 

This experiment may be a harbinger of things to come, a new era of plant modification in which flavor combinations once created by cooks will be re-created--or precreated--by breeders in the plants themselves. 

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Davidovich-Rikanati, R. et al., Enrichment of tomato flavor by diversion of the early plastidial terpenoid pathway. Nature Biotechnology 2007, online publication 24 June.

doi:10.1038/nbt1312

New developments in tomato flavor, part 1: Save the seeds

Two interesting studies of tomato flavor have appeared in the last month. One originated in the kitchen and may immediately change the way you taste and use tomatoes. The other involves genetic engineering, and offers a scent of tomorrow's tomatoes. Here's the first; check back in a few days for the second.

Olive oil pungency and bitterness

Here are a couple of interesting details to add to the story of olive oil's back-of-the-throat, peppery pungency.

In 2003, a research group at Unilever reported on the sensory effects of several of the phenolic compounds found in olive oil, including the cough-inducing substance later named oleocanthal. Oleuropein, the phenolic compound that makes the fruit of the olive bitter, is water-soluble rather than fat-soluble, so it doesn't get transferred into the oil when the fruit is pressed. But a number of oleuropein relatives do end up in the oil, and the Unilever researchers tasted them in pure form. They found these compounds to contribute mainly bitterness and drying astringency, along with some numbing, cooling, sour, salty, and tingling sensations. Relatives of pungent oleocanthal also taste somewhat astringent and bitter. So an oil rich in phenolics can have a very complex taste and mouthfeel indeed.

Other studies have found that heating olive oil reduces the levels of most phenolic compounds. And pepperiness gradually fades as an oil ages. The balance of flavors in an excellent olive oil is thus temporary and so especially worth savoring when you find it. The deterioration of olive oil is slowed by keeping it cool and protected from light.