London IT’S December in England, and Stilton rules the cheese board. Long celebrated as the king of English cheeses, festively veined with blue-green mold, Stilton is the holiday cheese of choice here. Something like half of the year’s production is sold in November and December. On Monday, I attended an intriguing tasting of this year’s Stiltons — intriguing because it included a new aspirant to the throne. This upstart young cousin can’t use the royal name, even though it aims to be the most traditional Stiltonian cheese of all. It’s called Stichelton. |